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Unraveling the Magic of Biofermentations for Skin Health
Jun
Our fascination with biofermentation runs deep, aligning seamlessly with our commitment to biodesigned skincare. The use of fermented ingredients has a rich lineage in culinary traditions – including wine, beer, bread, yogurt, kombucha, kimchi, and cheese. Creating these fermented foods showcases some of the earliest forms of biotechnology humans have used. Bioferments are now at the forefront of skincare, championing sustainability while nourishing the skin with potent compounds. More research is needed to fully understand biofermentation’s capabilities, but here, we dissect what scientists appreciate about these remarkable molecules and their benefits for skincare.
Decoding Biofermentation:
Biofermentation is a scientific procedure where microorganisms are used to extract potent, innovative ingredients from plant-based sources. The “bio-” denotes the biological material, in this case, plants. Biotechnology, by definition, employs biological systems or organisms to modify or create products or ingredients for specific use.
Through fermentation, the structure of a plant material is transformed into a more biologically and physiologically active matrix (another term for medium or fluid material). The process heavily relies on the choice of microorganism strain, plant material type, and the conditions under which the transformation occurs. Choosing the right strain allows fermentation to convert high-molecular plant compounds into low-molecular structures, making the molecules more accessible for our skin to absorb and utilize.
Understanding biofermentation principles (and working with a qualified cosmetic chemist) is crucial in developing ferments that are both safe and effective. A multitude of plant-based (and organic) materials can undergo this transformation, with some standing out due to their usage history and proven efficacy. These include berries (goji, blackberry, raspberry), green tea, grains, various flowers, succulents (aloe vera, purslane), roots (radish, ginseng, licorice, carrot, wasabi), citrus fruits, algae, and soybean. This ingenious process, leveraging the power of microorganisms, essentially delivers the most potent versions of these skin-friendly molecules from plant-based raw materials.
What Biofermented Ingredients Bring to Your Skin:
Depending on the materials used, bioferments provide a plethora of compounds brimming with multiple benefits, including antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and phytonutrients like proteins, amino acids, minerals, lipids, vitamins, ceramides, peptides, polysaccharides, enzymes, and acids. “The Mother” term used in fermentation makes perfect sense given the wealth of benefits!
Bioferments stand out due to their increased bioavailability and bio-compatibility for the skin. Their lower molecular weight, courtesy of fermentation, significantly enhances penetration and absorption. All the aforementioned compounds aid in strengthening the skin barrier integrity, reducing potential sensitivity, and visible signs of redness. Bioferments generally deliver effectiveness without causing congestion, irritation, or impairing the skin’s natural physiology.
An emerging and exciting area of study on bioferments is their potential to nourish and balance the microbiome. Certain bioferments provide abundant prebiotic, probiotic, and phytonutrient support, boosting the healthy microflora ecosystems across the skin’s microbiome. This is crucial as the microbiome plays a pivotal role in our first-line defense against environmental aggressors, providing a crucial barrier between our internal body and the external world.
Formulating skincare with probiotic substrate ingredients can be challenging since live bacteria (even the friendly ones) shouldn’t be present in finished cosmetic products, due to preservative needs. However, a process called filtration removes living bacteria from the final ingredient while preserving its beneficial properties, allowing your skin to reap bioferment benefits without worrying about potential side effects from live bacteria in products. You’ll often see “filtrate” in the ingredient name of many popular biofermentations for this reason.
Exceptions exist for live probiotic topical products, which are designed to be stored under strict conditions like refrigeration, or encapsulation, to keep the bacteria alive until they reach the skin.
Biofermentations in Josh Rosebrook Products
We utilize a variety of multi-benefit, advanced bioferments to enhance our formulations.
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate (SFF), derived from a yeast type’s fermentation, is a potent source of beta-glucan. It’s a humectant that supports the skin barrier and has antioxidant properties. It helps maintain skin balance and protects against environmental stressors. You can find SFF in our Ultra Peptide Cream.
Chamos Acaci Bifida Ferment Lysate (CABL) comes from bifidobacterium, a probiotic strain known for its skin health benefits. It’s a complex mix of proteins, peptides, amino acids, vitamins (B and E), and trace minerals (zinc and copper). Our Biome Body Cleanse features CABL.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (LFL) is derived from encouraging the growth of friendly bacteria Lactobacillus, a strain found naturally on the skin. Our Essential Balm Cleanse uses LFL due to its ability to promote microbiome resilience, speed skin renewal, and improve skin tone.
Rice Ferment Filtrate (RFF) is derived by fermenting rice with the yeast strain Saccharomyces. It is packed with phytonutrients, including amino acids, peptides, vitamins, ceramides, and polyphenols. You can find RFF in our Biome Body Cleanse.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (LRRFF) is not a marketed “active” ferment, but as a preservative, it plays an important role. It is derived from fermenting radish roots with the Leuconostoc kimchii bacteria and is a significant ingredient in many of our formulations.
Please note that the views and opinions mentioned here represent those of the brand and author, and should not be considered as medical advice or guidance.
RESOURCES
- “Biological and Cosmetical Importance of Fermented Raw Materials: An Overview.” Molecules. 2022.
- “The Importance of Fermented Plant Extracts for Anti Aging In Cosmetics Products”. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research. 2021
- “Cosmeutical Importance of Fermented Plant Extracts: A Short Review”. International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics. 2018.
- “Anti-Aging Effects of Probiotics.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2016.
- “Changing our Microbiome: Probiotics in Dermatology.” British Journal of Dermatology. 2020.
- Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate: Cosmetic Ingredient Profile. Special Chem. Accessed 2023.
- “Validation of the Tight Junction Promotion and Skin Barrier Enhancement by Saccharomyces Rice Ferment Filtrate.” Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2022.
- “Probiotics in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products: Trends and Challenges.” Molecules. 2021
- “Effect of Bifida Ferment Lysate on Skin Barrier Function.” Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019.
- Clinical Trial, “Efficacy of a Bifida Ferment Lysate-Enriched Serum on Age-Related Skin Changes.” 2020.
- “Antioxidant Activity of Bifida Ferment Lysate: A Comparative Study.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2018.
- “The pivotal role of Bifida Ferment Lysate on reinforcing the skin barrier function and maintaining homeostasis of skin defenses in vitro.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023.
- “Antimicrobial Activity of Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate: A Natural Preservative for Cosmetic Products.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2014.
- “Safety Evaluation of Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Preservatives.” Journal of Applied Microbiology. 2016.
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